phase 1: phenomenological analysis
Observe a natural solar light phenomenon, e.g. sunrise, sunset, light filtered through trees, light reflecting off of water, light in the mist, etc. Create a record of the phenomenon in three media: photography/video, drawing, and diagrammatic model. In documenting your observations, describe the phenomenological characteristics: color range, intensity/brightness, angle and direction of the sun, time of day, sky conditions, reflective light, shadows, shade, etc.
The light effect I chose for my project was light reflecting off a man-made waterfall that was bordered by wood. I chose this because I really enjoyed how the light reflected off of different parts of the water and was strongest at the source of light, but still had an interesting effect on the water and it got farther from the source. My original idea for my parti involved wire and that held vellum in a curved shape. I distorted my picture of my light effect to show how the light is distorted as it hits the falling water.
phase 2: design development
Design a luminaire using wood and any materials that you used in previous projects. Your luminaire should create a field of light based on your previous phenomenological analysis that articulates the surface upon which it is cast. The light source is to be a compact fluorescent bulb in a standard electric bulb socket.
My idea of having a curved luminaire maintained throughout the whole project, but changed from vellum to wood. I wanted to create on object made up of three-five curved pieces of wood. I also knew that I wanted to use a shiny piece of thin metal with the wood. My first idea involved lining the metal with mirrors to create even more of a reflection, but once I tried this I thought the effect was portrayed better by just using the metal sheet. I chose metal and wood because I thought the juxtaposition of the two worked really well together. Wood and aluminum are both in a sense man made objects, but the source of both is a element found in nature. At first, I talked to both Tommy about how to make bent wood, and he told me I would have to create a mold and clamp. I then talked to Stoel about it and he suggested I should make each layer of wood small, so it would create a sort of pyramid effect but Matt said he didn't know if it would be possible. The first type of wood I tried was balsa, but found out that there was a chance it would be too light for my project so I ended up using veneer. I am glad I chose this wood because it was more of the color I wanted and it look more finished that the balsa did.

This is my first try at bending wood. I didn't use a mold for it because the balsa wood was thin enough that you could hold it in the shape you wanted it in and it would dry like that. I also layered a thin sheet of aluminum along the curve of the wood to see how it would look.
This is the second try at bending wood. It is still balsa wood but I used a mold for this one to see how it would work. It was a lot harder than I thought it would because because if you made even the smallest error while using the band saw, you would see it in the final piece of wood. I wasn't sure how much the wood would be able to bed so I didn't create as much of a curve as I wanted for this one.
This is the mold I used to make the second piece of curved wood. I didn't have a thick enough piece to use as the mold so I first had to glue two 2x4s together.
The most frustrating part of the project was making a place to put the light. I kept putting it off and wanted to see how stable the four pieces would be once I put them together. To connect the pieces I drilled holes on each side of the thiner edge of the wood. I made two sets at the bottom inward curve and one set at the top, creating six holes on each piece of wood. Once I connected the four pieces and had it standing, I then played around with the strips of aluminum sheet. I first tried my original idea, which was to have the strips run along each four strips of wood. I didn't like how that looked and didn't like how it captured the light when I held the lightbulb in place. After trying a few other ways, I ended up making twelve strips of metal sheet that ran horizontally, connecting all four pieces but leaving one opening so you could better view the light effect. The strip that runs along the deepest curve is the thickest piece, and the other pieces that are either above or below it get smaller in increments.
The next think I made was the base for the lightbulb. I cut a circle out of veneer I had left over and a hold in the middle to put the bulb in. I then bent wire around the wood pieces and hot glued them on to the bottom of the thin piece of wood. The last think I did was create something to dim the brightness of the lightbulb. My original idea was to cut thin strips of pine so you could still see the light through the grains of wood. I spent a lot of time using the table saw to try to make the strips thin enough, and when I had enough I glues three together so it would be tall enough to completely cover the bulb. I used gorilla glue and waited for it to dry, but the glue expanded and it didn't look neat. I then decided to make a metal cylinder using the same sheet metal as the rest of the project. I attached four smaller pieces of wood to relate it more to the four larger pieces of curved wood and raised the cylinder so light would escape at the bottom.
This is my project when the lightbulb is turned off but the over head light is on. You can see the twelve horizontal strips of aluminum metal that are wrapped on the inside of the four curved pieces of wood.
This picture mainly highlights the effect of the light on the bands closest too the light source.
phase 3: documentation
Develop a composite drawing on an 18"x24" piece of Canson paper. This drawing should include: a plan, an elevation, a section, and an expressive rendition of the field of light created by your luminaire. You may select three colored pencils or pastels to use for the drawing.
I did my documentation on grey canson paper and used yellow, silver, and white colored pencils.